Biochar basics

Turning your Charcoal into Biochar!

Until you transform your charcoal to biochar, you have just that— Charcoal!

Acorns

Anything once alive

(plant or animal)

Bones

Cardboard & Egg Cartons
(no glossy)

Clothing 100% cotton or wool

Corn Cobs

Eggshells

Feathers

Food Waste

Fruit Pits

Grass Clippings

Hair

Horse Hoof Trimmings

Leaves (and leaf bags)

Manure (animal or human)

Meat and Fat (spoiled)

Nut Shells

Paper, Brown and White
(no glossy)

Paper Towel & Toilet Paper Rolls

Pinecones

Plant Stalks, Stems, & Leaves

Saw Dust

Scrap Lumber
(no painted or pressure-treated)

Seashells

Seaweed

Seedy Weeds

Small Dead Animals

Stale Bread

Straw or Hay

Weeds

Wood Chips

Wood Shavings

Quick answers to the questions gardeners ask most.

Do I need to charge biochar?

Yes— Charging fills pores with nutrients and biology so the biochar feeds your biology instead of temporarily tying up available nutrients.

Can I add biochar directly to beds?

You can, but it’s best mixed with compost or another nutrient source first. If you apply it raw, keep the rate low and place it only ON TOP of the soil without mixing.

How much should I use?

Start with small amounts blended into compost or potting mixes. Build gradually over seasons as you learn how your soil responds.

Is biochar the same as charcoal briquettes?

No. Briquettes often contain binders and additives. Use clean, additive-free biochar intended for soil use.

Does biochar replace compost?

No—compost brings nutrients and living biology. Biochar is a long-term structure and habitat that works best alongside compost and mulch.

Will biochar change my soil pH?

It can, depending on the feedstock and how it was made. If you’re unsure, test a small area first and keep an eye on pH-sensitive crops.